Saturday 11th August 2018

We had decided to take up the offer from the HM Bert at Oude-Tonge to stay a fourth night free of charge.  The weather looked promising and after a leisurely breakfast we decided to spend the day cycling, but in a different direction from yesterday.  Also, we needed to do some clothes washing, and some shopping for Sunday.

Our ride took us south and east, along the sea wall, back in the direction of the Volkerak lock.  This gave a magnificent view of the nature reserve, with large flocks of swans, geese and other wildfowl.  We stopped at a waterside cafe, Pavilioen Sluishaven, part of the Galathese Haven recreation area, near Ooltgensplaat, for lunch - bitterballen - then rode on through the wind park (a cycleway that doubled as service lane for a row of wind generators) to Ooltgensplaat village.  This was a pretty little place with its own harbour, but it was surprisingly quiet, particularly near the quay.  We did in the end find a supermarket, though.

We cycled back to Oude-Tonge using an inland route, part via the Oudelandedijk,  passing a splendid windmill fully rigged and operating.

On our return, Carol looked after some washing using the HM’s facilities.  David and Tim shopped; then Tim prepared a very appetising chicken shoarma (dutch spelling) dish, which we had with an excellent bottle of Riesling ...

This was our last evening at Oude Tonge, as the following day we had decided to move on.  We much enjoyed our stay at Oude-Tonge.

Cycle outing to Ooltgensplaat

Sunday 12th August 2018

Today we moved on.  There was some excitement moving out of our box with just 1 cm to spare between the posts, and I tried to protect the vinyl stripes with masking tape in the hope of avoiding too much damage to them.  Owing to the brisk S’ly wind, we were unable to turn south, so turned downwind and did a 180 degree turn in the confined space at the dead end.  We topped up with water at the HM pontoon as we passed by.  Passing through the Krammersluizen was uneventful, as we were signalled in just as we arrived, though the lock in use was surprisingly small.   We had to motor a few miles south, dead to windward, but sailed a good portion of the later passage under genoa only, achieving up to 7 kts at times.  We noticed a Dutch M336, Mimosa, during the passage, in fact a Mk II.  We ended up berthed just a few places away from them, and later had a brief chat.

We got through the Seelandbrug without problems.  At Zierikzee we were met by the HM in his RIB, and asked for a 2-night berth.  He offered us a box, which we accepted with alacrity, since the alternative would be many-deep rafting at the quayside, for the same price.   Although the direction of approach and the wind were awkward, Carol and Tim did a great job of looping the bow warps at the poles, and we arrived in style.  We spent the evening strolling around Zierikzee prospecting places to visit on Monday, and ate at a cafe on the market square.

Monday 13th August 2018

Monday we spent visiting museums in Zierikzee.  We had to endure a few drops of rain on the way from the moorings to the Stadhuis Museum, and the sky looked fierce while we looked around.  However, by the time we came out the sun was shining and we sat outside at a cafe for a Bitterballen lunch.  Finally, we shopped in the local Albert Heijn supermarket, amd returned to the boat, where we ate on board.  Later, Carol and David visited the WSV Zierikzee moorings just along the seawall, wondering if they might be an option in a future year.  We had a drink  in the clubhouse there and talked to the friendly bar manager, who turned out also to be the mooring manager.

Tuesday 14th August 2018

After a few chores on shore we departed from Zierikzee at about 11.30, under engine power as far as the entrance.  As we came out, the Zeeland bridge was wide open, but still a mile away - it closed as we watched.  We jilled around under genoa for a little while waiting for the next opening.  Once through, we set main and genoa for a broad reach in NW 15kts for the Zandkreeksluis entrance about an hour’s sail away.  We had to moor temporarily before the lock,which was half way through its cycle.  A short sharp shower greeted our arrival.  After the lock, the wind had become a dead header so we motored the couple of miles to Kortgene - Delta Marina - where we requested a berth by ‘phone.  It turned out to be a box.  

Delta is a very big outfit, with a major boatyard, Volvo dealer, chandlery and restaurant on site.  The village is about 15 minutes walk, but bikes are available for free loan, up to about 90 mins, for shopping.

Wednesday 15th August 2018

After a quick dash on a borrowed bike to the Spar supermarket, we left Delta Marina at about 1130.  A grey mild day, with some moisture in the air, and a moderate SWly.   A dead header as far as the Veerse Meer, so we motored gently. 

Once in the Meer we checked out possible islands for an overnight stay, Swallows and Amazons style.  In the end we settled on Arneplaat, one of the smaller islands where this is allowed, and it is also the southernmost one.

The harbour is well fitted with stages, bollards and rings.  Most mooring options have a good 2m of depth, thought the inner harbour, despite having box-like pillars, is more shoal, with rocks visible on the bottom close in.  Dinghies only in that part!

Our adopted island was not very large - it took no more than ten minutes to dawdle our way round its circumference.  But it gave good views of the southern part of the Veerse Meer and of Veere.  The sun shone intermittently in the late afternoon, by which time most other boats had gone, and we had a pleasant and quiet evening.

Thursday 16th August 2018

We passed a peaceful night and thoroughly enjoyed our brief Swallows and Amazons episode, but we had to move on, as our time was running out, and we were due to meet Jonathan at Middelburg for the return passage.  There was a minor incident casting off - we decided to do this under sail as the main channel was directly downwind from us - but (contrary to what the charts say) there is a shoal in between.  So we went gently aground in mud, but quickly freed ourselves by furling sail and motoring astern.  

We sailed north under genoa to the point where the Walcheren canal enters, near Veere, then, after a short delay, motored into the lock.  An easy passage to Middelburg followed, taking us to Jos Boone diesel station, where we took on 65 litres.  We then approached the HM pontoon, but with only a couple of minutes to go before bridge opening, there was no time to get ashore, so we negotiated with him by hailing!  And we were offered a box mooring through the bridge, which promptly opened to let us and a few other boats through.  There we awaited Jonathan’s arrival by train from the Harwich-Hook ferry, which was punctual at 8pm - in good time for dinner at the WSV (the local club that administers the harbour).

Middelburg was expected to be our last port of call this trip, as we were by  now spotting suitable conditions for the return to UK.

Friday 17th August 2018

Friday was spent at Middelburg shopping and preparing for the passage, while carefully watching the Met Office synoptic charts and other indicators - with the present situation, they were harder than usual to interpret and reconcile.  We provisionally decided to leave around 4pm, based on forecasts of a moderate SWly for the following 24 hours or more.  This would unfortunately not favour a direct return to Burnham, but should allow us to reach a point further north, like Harwich, from which Jonathan and Tim could return home by train.  With luck the following day or two should provide suitable conditions for continuing south to Burnham.

Carol and Tim took bus to Veere and visited its museum.  They had an interesting time, exploring the Scottish connection with Veere, and sampling some local delicacies.

We left Middelburg at 1600 as planned and reached Vlissingen a couple of hours before the optimum departure time, just after HW.  We put into WSV Schelde, a club marina just before the sea lock, planning to wait there until HW.  However, it became clear that the SW wind had not yet developed, and we therefore decided to postpone our departure by 12 hours, i.e. about 0800 on Saturday.

We passed an enjoyable evening at WVV Schelde, where we found the staff very friendly and helpful, and we ate in its clubhouse. Tim and David had a short walk towards Vlissingen Centre.

Leaving Middelburg - through the bascule bridge

Saturday 18th August 2018

Early on Saturday morning, the indications were that the expected SWly had now become established, so we agreed to go ahead as planned.  We departed Vlissingen 0815, expecting to arrive in the UK some time mid-afternoon Sunday 19th August.

Once again, strong winds of about 20-25 knots (actually about twice as strong as forecast) helped us make a very fast (and boisterous) passage.  We needed 2 reefs for a safe and reasonably comfortable passage.  By 00.30 BST on Sunday 19th August, we were well and truly in U.K. waters, on the approach to Shotley Marina.  We got in by 02.00 BST after sailing for 18 hours.  Unfortunately the marina attendant unwittingly handed us a defective mains supply connector, so our batteries couldn’t be recharged right away - but we were able to sort this out the following morning.

The return passage - some movies

Sailing along the beach of Walcheren island

You can say that again!

The instrument panel

Like a bat out of ...

Sunday 19th August 2018

Sunday began late (since  we had only turned in at about 0330 BST).  Showers were followed by a delicious Spanish Omelette as Brunch.  David fixed the navigation lamp that had infuriatingly failed during the passage (see Technical in the menu above), with a bucket hung from the pulpit to avoid losing any bits into the water!

Jonathan and Timothy needed to get back to Cambridge for work on Monday, and they booked a taxi to get them to Ipswich railway station.  Before they left, Jonathan and Tim helped us dismount the 45kg liferaft from its cradle on the pushpit.

David and Carol spent the afternoon partly resting, partly tidying and cleaning to bring Rockhopper back to a proper state.  Later, we took a walk a little way up the sea wall, watched Stena Hollandica arrive from the Hook of Holland, and discovered that the village store in Shotley Gate was now closed.  We ate in the Bristol Arms, watching Hollandica offload, then returned to the boat.

Monday 20th August 2018

Carol and David were on board for this final passage of the voyage back to Burnham on Crouch.  We locked out of Shotley at 1315.  There was no charge thanks to the reciprocal arrangement between Burnham and Shotley.  Wind was 8 kts SSE.  We motored to the Naze, hoping to hoist sail there, but the wind had veered to S and dropped to 6kts, so we continued to motor towards the Spitway.  We monitored a Mayday incident at Landguard Pt where a yacht Incas appeared to have grounded on a lee shore.  The Harwich IRB attended and eventually towed her off on the rising tide.

At 1530 the wind went round to the SE and piped up tot 12-13kts.  We hoisted sail.  Once through the Spitway we were doing 6.5 kts with helpful flood tide.  A vessel not far behind us was asked to divert inshore to investigate a report of someone in a ‘floating ring’ off Frinton - but as the Frinton shore had been a lee shore all day this seemed unlikely.  Still, we were relieved not to be the closest vessel.  Later a man in a kayak (not in distress) was discovered, but nothing else of significance.

We had a most enjoyable broad reach round Swallowtail Island (actually a sandbank), up the Whitaker Channel, and up the Crouch.  We got back to our home berth in Burnham Yacht Harbour at 18.30.  Carol cooked us an appetising meal using mostly left-overs from the fridge, and we enjoyed a very tasty dutch supermarket red ´Het Huis van Vincent’ that had cost a princely €3.99. 

The following day we returned the hired liferaft, packed and drove home.